A black issue is probably insufficient, but I don't see any problem with having special issues, days, activities, or events that focus on a minority. Participating in Earth Day doesn't mean that we ignore the planet the other 364 days a year, Pride Week doesn't mean we're homophobes the 51 weeks a year, and I don't suggest giving up on International Women's Day just because women deserve more than one day a year.

A special edition of a magazine is supposed to raise awareness and bring attention to something that usually doesn't get it (or potentially to mislead readers into thinking that the magazine is more socially responsible than in fact they are). In any case, if a magazine edition is an insufficient response to an ignored issue, that's not the fault of the edition. It's everything else that doesn't pay enough attention to the issue, and not having the magazine would be worse than having it.

BTW, is anyone else having a problem with the Feministing comment box? I don't see any cursor there.

azinyk, I hear what you're saying - but the issue is being promoted as the magazine tackling diversity probs in fashion. I'd feel a lot better about the issue if the editors were talking about it as the kickoff issue to a better, more diverse magazine EVERY issue.

Also, I'll look into that comment problem - sorry!

“Mine is not a magazine that can be accused of not using black girls,” said [Editor Franca] Sozzani, noting that Naomi Campbell has had several covers, and that Liya Kebede and Alek Wek have also had covers.

That quote kinda tells me that the only reason they made this issue is in response to all the complaints they get about their magazine not being diverse, rather than because they really wanted to make it more diverse.

"This issue of the magazine makes women of color who aren't black invisible."
In terms of fashion magazines, I think all of them do this...not just vogue...the only brown model I know of is Aishwarya Rai...and you can hardly tell she's brown...she's more "fair" as people like to say...which is probably why she's more famous haha.

My thoughts exactly, Jessica.

I think this issue is a failed attempt by Vogue to be accountable for their racism images. If the editor was actually dedicated to a more diverse magazine she should have normalized women of color within her magazine as opposed to othering them so blatantly.

Uh, I would have never guessed the model on the cover is black. They couldn't come up with a model with more typically black features?

One thing that frustrates me is that at least in one photo of Tyra Banks, she looks so pale as to be almost another person. It seems contrary to the idea of promoting variety in beauty.

e.g. http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2008/06/18/style/0619-BLACK_6.html

Part of the problem may be that it's an Italian issue. The whole "issue" of black and white is not as defined in Europe as it is in the US. So part of it may not just be ignorance but also not-knowing...
Anyway.... I'm not really sure what to think of a "black issue". I don't really like the idea but on the other hand I think it might lead to some dialogue ...

I think they had good intentions but I think that you're right it makes it seem that the other times normal is white. If they were really interested in being more diverse they would ALWAYS have different types of models on their cover and there would not be a need for a Black Issue.

JESSICA: "By creating a "black issue," Vogue Italia is positioning a "normal" issue as white. Not to mention, diversity isn't a black-white thing. This issue of the magazine makes women of color who aren't black invisible"

So are you against Black History month too?

I think your follow-up comment identifies whether the move is good or bad: Is it a launching pad to more diversity in general in the magazine, or a way of dismissing accusations that the fashion industry lacks diversity (look, we have whole issues on ethnic models!).

UCLAbodyimage, of course not! There's a big difference between a month celebrating black history and a magazine throwing some diversity table scraps our way...

Although I understand and agree with the issues you bring up Jessica, I think it is equally important to acknowledge the constructive potential of a magazine issue like this.
You wrote, "By creating a "black issue," Vogue Italia is positioning a "normal" issue as white."
The normalization of whiteness has been going on for quite some time in the fashion industry, I think that Vogue Italia's choice to create a "Black Issue" (perhaps not the most creative name) does not "position" a normal issue as white, rather it acknowledges that this is the case. Perhaps it does more to widen the gap between what is perceived as normal and what is not, but I think that it creates a space for constructive discourse on this disparity. Another thing I don't entirely agree with is your assessment that having a magazine featuring black models and articles that deal with issues that affect black women, renders other women of color invisible. I would argue that every issue of Vogue (whether Italia, or American) renders the majority of women invisible. This issue is not called the WOC issue, it is called the black issue, and while I think that every issue they have should feature beautiful women of all colors, I don't think it is fair to attack the ONLY issue of Vogue (or any major fashion magazine?) that not only features a majority of black models, but ALL black models for lacking a more multicultural cast. Clearly the understanding of race in the media is severely polarized into a black/white dichotomy, which is something that needs to be changed, but arguing that this issue single handedly positioned white as normal or renders other women of color invisible without acknowledging the possible good that this issue, and the writers, the models and the photgraphers that helped create it have sparked.
I also think it is important to read the articles (which are supposedly aimed at black women, dealing with issues that affect them). It's easy to quickly respond to buzz words, and severely irritating marketing ploys (the black issue? come on guys, let's be a little more original), but I think we would be sacrificing a more contructive and engaging conversation.

I don't see a problem with this issue. It's a launching pad into further discussion and follows the patterns of artistic movements where an artist throws a stark wave of contrast into a homogeneous field. Vogue and other magazines tend to be mostly white and this issue is going to make a lot of designers, models and fashionistas think hard about the modeling world. Additionally, i think it will be a good representation for black women in this type of profession.

SOJOURNER: Uh, I would have never guessed the model on the cover is black. They couldn't come up with a model with more typically black features?

My thoughts exactly. Especially since it's Italian Vogue, the model could just as easily be a darker-skinned caucasian woman.

It's like they're saying, "Hey look at us, we're having an issue devoted to diversity--as long as you conform to white beauty standards."

To be fair, I haven't seen the inside of the magazine, but cover is definitely the most important/prominent.

As far as the concept of the "Black Issue" itself--I'm kind of torn. Yes, it makes black women out to be some kind of exotic "Other;" but it is at least recognition of their "Other" status by mainstream, white media. Whether pointing that out exacerbates the situation or not, I don't know... I feel it could lead to something positive.

Okay so this reminds me of Hairspray when they have 'Negro Day!'. Anyone else feeling this is a little like Separate but Equal?

To me, this is about as pathetic as Black History Month.
Instead of incorporating black history into what is now a Eurocentric "History" taught from the white (man's) POV, we'll just set aside a month each year to mention some blacks' accomplishments before getting back to our regular programming.
That's what this reminds me of.

I would not have identified the woman on the cover as black.

And was anyone else reminded of "Negro Tuesday" from Hairspray?

BabyWiz1986, I totally hear what you're saying...and maybe if the issue was marketed differently, I would be more likely to think of it as the start of a conversation. But the way that the editors seemed to talk about it was the end of the conversation...but that's just my take.

as ambivalent as i am about this "black issue" business, i'm more concerned about the lack of anyone even remotely normal-sized in these magazines. and even MORE concerned about the disturbing economic messages this sends. (we'll have women of every color in this magazine! as long as they're tall, skinny, and rich.)

i know these magazines exist to sell themselves, and the editors are most likely just responding to market desire. this "special issue" indicates that there's some increased demand from (presumably) wealthy WOC to see more diversity in these magazines, and that's good, in my opinion. but still, what makes me truly ill about these mags is the conflation of fashion (a valid art form) with truly disgusting, flashy shows of wealth. all accompanied by a healthy dose of indoctrinated self-loathing.

The model on the cover is Liya Kebede, from Ethiopia. I think there are actually 4 versions of the cover, each model has a lighter complexion (Naomi Campbell included). There are a lot of fucked up beauty standards that models have to live up to (specifically looking super thin and more European), however I think that it is just as offensive to claim that Liya is not "typically black" enough to be on the cover of the black issue. There are many different faces of black women, and although I do agree that fashion magazines typically feature light skinned women, that does not make Liya any less black, beautiful, or representational of *many* black women around the world. Blackness isn't one thing, magazines should get hip to that.

You know, this is exactly how I feel about Asian-American History Month, Black History Month, Women's History Month... These groups should be incorporated into every month, give me a fucking break. The fact that there must have a Black issue means that the status quo is discriminatory to that group, and that it's got a way to go before they can make any claims otherwise.

And for the record, Naomi Campbell is also of Chinese descent. Just sayin', Elle, no reason to ignore the lighter half of biracial DNA.

This would have been great if it were trying to address the typical over representation of white women by celebrating black women for an issue.

As it is, it seem to focus a lot of diversity which designates diversity as a 'black' problem and re-frames the celebration of black women as means to an end, rather than celebrate them for their inherent value. If they followed this with an actual "regular" issue that focused on diversity, that would be great, but I don't see it happening.

Also I agree, by omission it renders women outside of the artificial black/white dichotomy as invisible.

To be fair, I think it's significant that they've dubbed it "A Black Issue," rather than "The Black Issue" or just "Black Issue," as most people here have been describing it. This struck me in two ways: 1) an acknowledgment that one issue with black women would not suffice, and there is more to be done, and 2) a play on the word "issue"--that this is one of the issues black women have to deal with.

I took this issue as a positive thing--aggressively challenging the reader to acknowledge the racism of your typical fashion rag, and celebrating black beauty.

However, I agree that the fashion industry's understanding of "black beauty" is pretty limited to caucasia-compatible features.

I would add to what Roni said by saying that, by limiting discussion of diversity to such things as "the black issue" further marginalizes diversity as an issue that only "minorities" have to deal with. In reality, it affects everyone, and should be an open discussion in the white/normative issues.

Actually, by opening the discussion in the "normative" issues throughout the year, the magazine could serve to make itself much more representative and accessible to the rest of the world.

I think this is fantastic - I have just come back from 12 months working in Italy and OH.MY.GOODNESS they are racist. I really found it hard as an Aussie to be accepted .... and I didn't look any different!

My 'leftist' friends believed that 99% of Romanians are thieves or beggars, and don't even get me started on the African immigrants there. Italy has a long way to go before accepting strangers - they are very enthno-centric.

Berlusconi doesn't help.

To Americans this may be offensive. But I'm telling you- Italy today is 1950s America. It's an awesome step, really awesome.

"Okay so this reminds me of Hairspray when they have 'Negro Day!'. "

I was gonna say something, but this had me on the floor cracking up.

Thank you, paigeashley. Thank you. :)

There are not actually four covers, it's a pull out with four different models. The main cover is only Kebede. To be fair, the normal issue (which is what they are making a statement against) IS all white women (or very few others). This all black issue is presented in contrast -- probably to show that it is just as easy to have a wonderful, readable magazine with beautiful women without any whites at all. Also, most fashion blogs are of the opinion that this will mark a change in terms of the fashion industry -- both French and American Vogue have been showcasing black models recently, probably from the hype about this Italian issue. It may be a little racist (are they going to have each minority have their turn?), but it's certainly a step in the right direction, and will promote a dialogue in the fashion world. At the same time, a plus-sized black model (from ANTM) has also been included, showing that perhaps Ali's segment has had a similar effect in terms of the weight issues of current modeling culture.

This would have been a great idea if it had been done to show that (contrary to the sorts of excuses that the fashion industry uses) there ARE plenty of WOC models and that, if a client doesn't want a "diverse" group of models because the range of appearance would distract from the clothes, then there's still no excuse for the one look always being white.

Anyone else feeling this is a little like Separate but Equal?
That is an interesting question I am going with a yes on that.
I do feel like they did this to shut people up not necessarily because they wanted to. I'm glad they did it but I'm not fooling myself with "this is the launching pad" because chances are not much will change in the fashion industry because the goal of the fashion industry is made to sell expensive items to the people who can afford it and that tends to be Caucasians. Blacks unfortunately are usually on the bad side of the economy and if a rich Caucasian sees something marketed using a black models they will think it is not that high end because blacks usually don't have that much money. They will move onto a different label and the company with the black models will lose money. This may surprise some but the fashion industries target audience is not black or white it is green and whites tend to have most of it. This is all about money and nothing else.
If anything we need to change the social injustices and economy first before we can change the fashion industry.

It reminds me of the movie Zoolander. Derek really tries to be a good person and he ultimately prevails, but he's utterly blind to his failings.

The issue is wonderful because it:
1. sparks discussions about racism in the fashion industry
2. highlights the all-white nature of most magazines
3. it shows, over and over again, how women of color and fashion editorials are compatible. I think Tyra and ANTM have been amazing for this, but I digress...
4. It promotes the careers of these models, some of whom are emerging as minor supermodels. Chanel Iman, for example.
5. As someone already mentioned, the very playful "A Black Issue" in bronze on the cover.
6. All the articles in the magazine relate to black women in the arts/entertainment
7. The photographer Stephen Meisel states, "“I thought, it’s ridiculous, this discrimination. It’s so crazy to live in such a narrow, narrow place. Age, weight, sexuality, race — every kind of prejudice.”

however I think that it is just as offensive to claim that Liya is not "typically black" enough to be on the cover of the black issue. There are many different faces of black women, and although I do agree that fashion magazines typically feature light skinned women, that does not make Liya any less black, beautiful, or representational of *many* black women around the world

Babywiz1986, you took the words right out of my mouth. I find the phrase "not black enough" very offensive. So, in addition to facing Otherness at the hands of white beauty standards, we are now going to say that women who have "white" features (gah, don't people see how wrong this is?) are not black enough?

This reminds me of the Vogue issues devoted to "beauty at all ages" (dressing a model who is 30 in clothes they deem appropriate for the 70+ woman instead of using an actual 70-year-old) or "beauty at all sizes" (using a model who is a size four to showcase clothes for the 16+ woman...sometimes there's a size 12 or so, but they're also extremely tall, which is not the same as a five-foot-tall size 12).

Re: the cover model beign "too white". I think such divisions are akin to criticizing "real beauty" ads, posters, etc. as well as heavier women. The cover model is black and it's not fair to say she's less black because she has lighter skin and straight hair. Just as body image issues don't only affect heavy women, the "black experience" isn't just about looking "super-black".

My comment from yesterday never published, so let me try again. My objection to the cover photo is mostly that they seem to have Photoshopped her skin to make it lighter. That's just absurd gven the topic!

UCLAbodyimage-

Though I am in favor and supportive of Black History Month, I've always felt that it was something of a back-handed gesture. First of all, it's the shortest month of the year! And it gives the impression that since schools and some news programs will focus more on Black history, that they shouldn't feel obligated to talk about it the rest of the year. (Although, when I was in school, "Black History Month" tended to be MLK month. Maybe also some Rosa Parks tossed in.)

Same goes for Women's History Month too. They seem like something just throw in there so we'll all just quit griping. I'm not saying we shouldn't try to use those periods to our advantage, but I wish it can be incorporated into daily thoughts and teachings.

Also, I agree that I wouldn't have necessarily guessed that the cover model was Black if the text didn't imply so, but I also agree with Babywiz1986. The model shouldn't have to feel shamed to "look kind of White". Is that her fault? Is she not a good enough representation of her ethnicity? I had a friend of mine who's Puerto Rican get hassled on the street by some younger girls for looking too White. Why must women of color be marginalized by some for being "too White" and others for not being "White enough"?!

UCLAbodyimage-

Though I am in favor and supportive of Black History Month, I've always felt that it was something of a back-handed gesture. First of all, it's the shortest month of the year! And it gives the impression that since schools and some news programs will focus more on Black history, that they shouldn't feel obligated to talk about it the rest of the year. (Although, when I was in school, "Black History Month" tended to be MLK month. Maybe also some Rosa Parks tossed in.)

Same goes for Women's History Month too. They seem like something just throw in there so we'll all just quit griping. I'm not saying we shouldn't try to use those periods to our advantage, but I wish it can be incorporated into daily thoughts and teachings.

Also, I agree that I wouldn't have necessarily guessed that the cover model was Black if the text didn't imply so, but I also agree with Babywiz1986. The model shouldn't have to feel shamed to "look kind of White". Is that her fault? Is she not a good enough representation of her ethnicity? I had a friend of mine who's Puerto Rican get hassled on the street by some younger girls for looking too White. Why must women of color be marginalized by some for being "too White" and others for not being "White enough"?!

Along the same lines of the model looking supposedly "too white" to be on the cover of a black issue... Not all Italian people are dark complected. Someone upthread mentioned that she would not have thought the model to be black especially because it's an Italian magazine. My family is Italian, and while my grandmother and her sisters are from southern Italy, we do have some northerners and they are quite pale, blonde haired and blue eyed.

Jessica F., Are you serious? Black women don't have straight hair. Her hair is straight because she has sewn fake, straight hair into her actual hair.

I understand what some posters are saying about it being unfair to say she's not "black enough", but at the same time, what the editors are saying with this (and all kinds of advertising that I've seen all over the world) is "Black is Beautiful, but only if you exhibit features that are typically found in Caucasians, (whether they're natural or artificial.)" Such as straight hair, light skin, narrower nose, etc...

The only posters who seems to really understand what's happening Sunshine007 and Babywiz1986. It's IRONY folks. Italian Vogue is not saying here's a "black" issue like it's black history month or that it's supposed to make up for not having enough black models the rest of the time. It's a STATEMENT piece. You aren't supposed to take it literally. And, yes, they are saying that "normal" is white, or, rather that fashion has long been positioning white as "normal" and they're flipping that assertion on its head.

As for friggin' Liya Kebede not being BLACK enough for some posters--how absolutely hilarious. She's probably "blacker" than you know. She's Ethiopian folks. You, know, that country in Africa. While, yes, there has been a long-time bias in the fashion industry for WOC with more "European" features, I think we have to be careful that we don't overlook the fact that we [black people] encompass a very wide range of facial features and skin tones. The assertion that her features aren't "really black" sounds like maybe some of you guys live in places where you don't get exposed to the diversity within black folks. Here in New York there is a sizeable Ethiopian population and her look is pretty common.

The problem I have with this, is that I'm sure Vouge is patting themselves on their backs for being so 'diverse' but most fashion mags that I've seen that do have more diverse models still do every thing they can to make them look white anyway.

take a good look at the model on the cover.

she has straight hair and decidedly white facial features, as well as a coffee and cream complexion.

I think this is a two-fold issue here.

1. lack of diverse models
2. a homogenization of women regardless of skin color or ethnicity.

I mean, really, they make all the white models look exactly alike & it's no different for models of any other race.

I think the problem here is that the fashion industry isn't really interested in equal rights or diversity.

all they're really interested in is having models that fit their mold & their idea of what 'sexy' is so they can sell it.

i'm 16 and i'm from Venice. I'm sorry because I don't speak English, but I try anyway.
Although i'm Italian I don't read Vogue's Italian Issue, but I buy US Issue and I 'm learnig English from it! I can't make myself clear because i don't know English but I think that US Issue is more interesting and broadminded than Italian!
I knew this site by a Italian Marieclaire's article and I LOVE it!
I'm going to learn English to read well "feministing", too.

Thanks, Jessica Valenti. I hope that your books will are published in Italy!

I can agree that Vogue is guilty, like most other players in the fashion industry, or promoting a single image, with few deviations, of what women look like. I do not agree that the model portryed on the cover of this magazine is "less black" because she has straight hair. Perhaps she's of mixed race--I have several friends who identify as black but could "pass" because they are mixed race. Are we to say they're not authentic? That they're faking their race? To me, that's racism.

I feel you have misrepresented (or misunderstood) the situation.

There was a time where there WAS increased diversity in the high-end fashion industry (runway, covers, and most importantly mega$$-spokesperson contracts) for Models-of-color (Halley & Latifa don't count).

In the high-end FASHION industry, don't expect any of them to look like anything other than human-hangers ... i believe that is their job (yes, another feminist issue, but relative to ALL boney-assed models).

BTW, please 'stop the silly madness' with the attempt to disect the 'traditional black-woman look' b***sh*t' cause, Honey, we come in all shapes and sizes, colors and conditions ... MOST of them skinny cause most of us live in countries where we are starving to death, but i digress. I guess I'm just asking that you recognize the definition of Black, within this industry, is ALL ABOUT SKIN COLOR. So when you remark about her nose not being big enough, remember that Dorothy Dandridge had to wear DARKER make-up, 'cause she wasn't dark enough!! Yet could not use the pool because ... all it takes is one drop and you a nigger.

Now, back to the Vogue Issue ...

The PHOTOGRAPHER'S POWER & EYE within the industry was a serious key to this ONE Italian Vogue issue (they regularly have women-of-color in their mag) because HE NOTICED THE DECLINE (and there was loads of talk last year about the 'lack of diversity' on the walkway) and thought he had an opportunity to work with women he finds beautiful, some of whom he has worked with for over a decade.

This issue is merely a reflection of what happened WITHIN THE INDUSTRY in the past few years, what is happening now (exclusion), and what should happen going forward (all colours).

It is a wake-up 'CALL TO ARMS to those in power (designers, photographers, booking agents, creative directors, etc.) TO REMEMBER that women-of-color are JUST AS BEAUTIFUL and capable of selling fashion (remember, this industry is pretty shallow and misogynistic to begin with ... so let's not expect too much, okay?) as the next boney-assed lily-white gurrrrl.

Sincerely,

Beverly Johnson and Iman

(Retired Goddesses to zillions of young women-of-color who had never seen a black female model)